Islay – July 2017

Islay, a small island off the west coast of Scotland which is currently the home of EIGHT whisky distilleries and it was mine, Cathal and Thomas’s plan to visit them all.  Here is what we learned about the process of making whisky:

  1. Barley is soaked in warm water and spread out on malting floors to start germinating so that its sugar can be accessed later on in the process. This process is called malting.  Germination is stopped by drying out the barley.  On Islay this is done by burning peat in a kiln which is what gives Islay whiskies their peaty and smoky taste.  Most distilleries don’t do their own malting but there are a few that do some of the malting they require and they are Laphroaig, Bowmore and Kilchoman.1
  2. This barley is then ground down in a specialised grinding machine to get the required consistency.2
  3. Once the barley is ground to the desired size, this (the Grist) is added to a mash tub along with warm water to start dissolving the sugars. Each distillery must have its own water source. 3
  4. This mixture (the Wort) is then added to large tanks called washbacks. This is where fermentation happens when yeast is added and turns the sugars into alcohol.  This liquid is called the Wash.  Some distilleries let you try it and it basically tastes like a strong (ok but not amazing) beer.4
  5. The wash is then distilled. This is where it is heated up in stills, the alcohol vapours rise to the top of the still and then condense.  The condensed liquid is then distilled at least one more time.  The liquid from the “heart” of the still is what is added to casks to mature.  The remaining liquid either has too much or too little alcohol and is then mixed and reused in the distillation of the next batch. 5
  6. The liquid is then stored in casks for a number of years to mature and the number of years depends on what kind of whisky the distillery is trying to make but it has to be matured for a minimum of 3 years. And after the maturation, like magic, whisky has been made!6We succeeded in visiting all of the distilleries.  I really liked how the ones on the coast had their names painted on the buildings in massive letters to that ships delivering ingredients knew which distillery was which.  While the process of making whisky is basically the same at each one there were subtle differences in methods and equipment.  I would recommend all of the tours to see these differences and to try a whole bunch of whisky!  The only one I didn’t like as much as the rest was the Bowmore one and this was because the guide we had came across as though she was giving a tour to school children.  Ardbeg and Bruichladdich both had a really interesting history.  One thing to note is that a few distilleries have their silent season in summer months where they are not producing.  This was because traditionally water supplies were low in summer so they used the time to carry out equipment maintenance.  Not really a problem if you go to all of the distilleries like we did though!:P  One more is actually opening in 2018, I guess I will have to go back in a few years!7891011121314

    While on Islay we also enjoyed some of scenery.  We visited the American Monument at the south of the island where we got some fantastic coast line views.

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    Heelan Coo on the way to the American Monument

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    Cathal and Thomas walking to the American Monument

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    For the first two nights we camped at Kintra Farm Campsite which didn’t have the best facilities but did have cracking views since it was on a beach facing west.

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    Camping at Kintra Farm Campsite

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    We also visited Machir Bay on the west of the island which was a beautiful and fairly quiet white sandy beach.  The waves from the Atlantic crashing in were pretty impressive and looked very surf-able even though I’m sure the water would be fecking freezing!

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    Machir Bay

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    For the last two nights we camped at near Port Charlotte which had really good facilities that were shared with a football pitch.  Overall we had a great trip.  Friends, whisky and nice scenery, what more do you need?

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    Camping near Port Charlotte

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    Jura from the ferry on the way back

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